Maria Kopytko
CLASSICAL MUSIC, FOOTWEAR, GRAFFITI,
AND HOMO-TECHNO
Maria Antonina Kopytko is a boundary-pushing designer who’s practice balances on a border of fashion and art overarching various disciplines from jewellery, print design through apparel, footwear to bags. Her designs marry traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology and draw from philosophical concepts. Her aesthetic is a product of from diverse influences, where the street art intersects with technology, and where classical music converges with the pulsating energy of techno.
Maria, currently undertaking a Master's degree at the renowned IFM in Paris, holds a Bachelor's degree from the Academy of Arts in Szczecin. During her studies, she had the opportunity to spend a semester at the Bezalel Academy of Arts in Israel. Her BA collection, titled "Liquid Body," which drew inspiration from pole dancing and pop art, received international acclaim, being featured in online editorials and magazines worldwide, including Vogue Hong Kong, Sicky Mag, Glamcult, L'Officiel Austria, Nasty Magazine, Newonce Paper, GATA Magazine, The Calvert Journal.
Despite her wide fashion experience, Maria firmly asserts that footwear holds a special place in her heart. Interestingly, her last name, Kopytko, translates to "shoe last" in Polish, hinting at a potential destiny intertwined with her passion. Her professional experiences span across various departments, including print design for the Polish brand Acephala, apparel for Berlin's Namilia, and bags for LOEWE, where she currently interns at.
Schiaparelli project, Maria Kopytko
Coming from a quaint town near Walbrzych, Poland, Maria's upbringing was far removed from the influences of high-end fashion or vibrant art scene. In this suburban, small town setting, her intuition served as a trusted guide to shape her own taste and aesthetic. Looking back, she now recognises her early fascination with graffiti. She sees it as the initial thread connecting her to the realm of contemporary art, which is an ever present theme in her projects today.
One aspect that left a significant impact on Maria's life early on was attending music school where she specialised in piano. She devoted nine intensive years to this pursuit yet modestly admits: “Just to set the record straight, I wasn't exactly a virtuoso, despite what you might assume (laughter). Nevertheless, it had a profound effect on shaping my sensitivity, leaving a deep, subconscious influence which I can see now reflected in my creative practice.”
According to Maria: "Throughout creative life, and especially in fashion, you continuously work on creating your own distinctive universe, hyper-unique identity, and way of perceiving and thinking." Music school played a pivotal role in teaching her how to express herself through various artistic mediums, with music being the primary outlet at the time. "It was an introspective journey of self-discovery, learning how to communicate and convey emotions through the language of sound.”
Like Sugar shoes, Maria Kopytko
In her early teens, Maria came across a magazine featuring a story of acclaimed Polish fashion designer Gosia Baczynska. Her journey to success described in the article served as a big source of inspiration for Maria. She swiftly noted down some details about the designer and pinned the note to her cork board as a guiding light for her own dreams. Having learnt that Baczyńska had attended an art college in Wroclaw, a mere 1.5 hours away from her town, she decided to follow her footsteps and pursue education at the very same institution.
For Maria, leaving home at the age of 15 marked a period of self discovery and encounter with the lively creative scene of a big city. “Art college provided me with a solid foundation in technical aspects and design fundamentals. My friends and I would regularly attend theatres, vernissages, we volunteered at the local film festival. My years in Wroclaw were, without a doubt, the most remarkable period of self-exploration in my life. Before, it was a city that used to be a total dream for childhood shopping trips!”
”In college, I picked a jewellery profile, but it was a very spontaneous decision. I wasn't entirely sure what I was doing at the time" Maria reflects with a laugh. However, her Bachelor's degree at the Szczecin's Academy of Art took a different path, as it encompassed both apparel and footwear. "It was a relatively new course back then, and my year was only the second cohort. This turned out to be a fantastic opportunity, providing us with a high level of freedom and creative open space for experimentation”
Maria's designs during her Bachelor's program were centred around the concept of manipulating body posture, approaching footwear as both a wearable item and a creative form with sculptural elements. Reflecting on her experience, Maria recalls, "My tutors were incredibly supportive and inspiring. We had the freedom to question the function, form, and essence of footwear, exploring its conceptual aspects."
In her pursuit of gaining practical experience, Maria secured an intern position at Acephala, a Warsaw-based brand she had the opportunity to design prints for their Slavic goddesses collection. "It was essential for me to be in non commercial environment that drew inspiration from contemporary art and embraced experimentation.” Seeking further growth, Maria later joined Namilia, a Berlin based brand known for its techno and edgy style. During her time there, she balanced work and study, spending six months immersed in the brand's creative process. "It was one of the first major projects I had the chance to work on. I gained a wealth of knowledge and confidence in making through this hands-on experience. I was involved in the production of around 100 individual pieces.” recalls Maria.
Like Sugar shoes, Maria Kopytko
The vibrant atmosphere of Berlin, with its influential club culture and dynamic music scene, left a lasting impact on Maria's creative work. She openly acknowledges that music serves as a primary catalyst for her artistic process. "They say that techno induces a trance-like state, and for me, music really has a strong influence. It stimulates my mind, enhances my concentration, and sparks a surge of ideas". In the midst of a pulsating club, Maria would experience those "aha" moments of inspiration. The music would resonate within her, igniting a spark of silhouettes, shapes and concepts. “I would sometimes come back home from a club and take notes, sketches of designs that popped up in my head while dancing.”
Maria vividly remembers an unexpected encounter with abstract musical inspiration during a visit to a Parisian church. As she explains "Sometimes it's not solely about the music itself, but rather the very essence of sound. I recall stepping into église Saint-Eustache, where an organist was tuning the instrument. The ethereal and abstract sound that resonated throughout this huge chapel had an indescribable impact on me. It was an unreal and awe-inspiring moment, with the sound enveloping the space.. it had a mesmerising effect."
Liquid Body, Maria Kopytko
When it comes to aesthetic alignment, she identifies herself more as a Berliner than a Parisian designer. Paradoxically the ever surrounding beauty of Paris in many ways, prompted her to develop a newfound appreciation for the Polish surroundings that she may not have fully recognised before . "During moments of frustration and irritation" she recalls, "I would sometimes say to my friends, 'I can't bear to look at those pristine buildings anymore. I crave the Polish patchwork, the juxtaposition of pink and green, and the grand advertisements of random car companies. I want to see this raw and unconventional beauty!”
She finds inspiration in graffiti and street art, considering them as her bridge connecting contemporary art with the references found on a street level in Poland. "When given the opportunity, I seek out the raw, unpolished, and authentic. I'm drawn to creations born out of pure impulse, devoid of overthinking. It's like the doodles I used to make on the margins of my school notes during a class— a pure expression of creativity. There's something primal yet undeniably genuine about it! This raw essence frequently appears as a source of inspiration for me, in the intersection of contemporary and street art. Artists like Katharina Grosse and her spray art embody that essence."
Liquid Body, Maria Kopytko
Maria's design process for her BA collection was characterised by playfulness and experimentation. Influenced by pop artist Allen Jones, as well as the unique style of FKA twigs, Maria delved into a mixed media process that involved digital collages, sculpture, watercolour experiments, and the in-corporation of music - lots of music. The rhythmic beats and trance-like melodies provided a safe space for her to find focus and create her own world.
Surprisingly though, the key inspiration for her Masters collection concept came from listening to a podcast. ”It was a podcast featuring Grimes which I found very thought-provoking. She spoke about how at this point, we are not homo sapiens but homo techno. We are addicted to technology, and evolution has transformed us into homo-techno. (…) We live in a physical digital fusion everyday, where we communicate, live and rely on technology. Well, our conversation is a proof of that! (laughing)”
Embracing this digital fusion, Maria explores the multi-functionality and convenience that technology, particularly smartphones, provide. She seeks to create new typologies of accessories, embracing versatility and comfort. This includes products like bags designed to be worn over the hair, knee bags and bags with sleeves that can be worn or carried around. Maria emphasises that her approach is not solely focused on the technology itself, with its typical association of responsive materials or futuristic visuals. Instead, her designs revolve around the concept of convenience and the immersive experience of interacting with products that provide such convenience : “It’s all about questioning product, pushing its limits of form and function.”
“I believe this collection serves as a compass guiding me towards my future" Maria passionately affirms. As she nears the completion of her project for the upcoming showcase, she is eagerly exploring new avenues to show her work. Maria wishes to push the boundaries of traditional fashion presentation looking into new possibilities offered by the digital world. "I'm collaborating with a friend who specialises in 3D website design and virtual realms," she shares. "Together, we are translating the entire realm of my collection into the digital world. Every prototype will come to life in this new dimension. It's still a work in progress, but we envision creating an interactive experience in the form of a game and an avatar, accompanied by an abstract narrative that unfolds through different scenarios.”
Maria is currently interning at Loewe's bag department, an opportunity that has unfolded as yet another intriguing plot twist in her journey. As the bags category is still relatively new territory for her, she embraces the challenges that come with it expanding her knowledge and stepping outside of her comfort zone: “I am assisting, learning, and observing. This is my first professional internship of this nature, and it's exciting to explore various techniques and the impeccable craftsmanship that goes into the creation of luxury products.”
With a passion for new technologies, when asked about her dream places to work, Maria admits that she would love to join companies at the forefront of cutting-edge technologies. This would allow her to benefit from their equipment and innovative approaches as well as further develop her expertise in the realm of accessories.
Her MA work together with other graduates will be on show at Tranoi, an event organised in collaboration with Premiere Vision focused on small brands, leather goods in this coming September.
To catch a glimpse of her collection and stay updated on her upcoming projects follow her Instagram account here.