Ukrainian brands to know and support
Every day, heartbreaking news is coming to us from Ukraine. The lives of innocent people have drastically changed – in fact, many of those lives have been taken. Even though we may feel helpless and fear for tomorrow, there are a lot of ways to offer help and support.
Some donate money, others protest. There are even those who offer employment opportunities or a safe place to stay to the displaced. It is crucial to support the Ukrainian economy, too, and fashion plays a large role here.
Ukraine’s flourishing scene of small and large creative enterprises has formed a rapidly-growing industry and vital platform to communicate the country’s cultural significance globally. The collections of talented fashion designers show the world the distinctive energy and beauty of Ukraine. For the moment, their dreams, ambitions and future plans have been brutally halted, with many designers unable to access their studios; their stock destroyed and livelihoods uncertain.
Here are a number of Ukrainian brands that are worth knowing, following and supporting – both now and hopefully in a soon-to-be peaceful future.
TTSWTRS
A brand founded in 2013 by former costume designer and stylist Anna Osmekhina. TTSWTRS stands for “Tattoosweaters”. It specialises in leggings and bodysuits designed to give the optical illusion of an inked body. It has attracted the attention of celebrities worldwide, getting into the wardrobes of Nicki Minaj, Winnie Harlow and Tommy Cash, to name a few.
Rooted in tattoo culture, TTSWTRS merges both art and clothing with its collections that are rich in cross-disciplinary collaborations. In 2021, TTSWTRS released the fashion film “Mission” as an NFT, with the proceeds donated to the ocean protection organisation Parley for the Oceans.
Anna Osmekhina moved to Poland in March and found refuge in Gdańsk, where she hopes to continue running her business. However, having her team split between different countries makes it very difficult to plan for the future.
“Intergalactic Freedom Dress” is one of the fruits of the brand’s recent collaboration with the leading meta fashion retailer DRESSX, which was founded by two Ukrainians. The dress is available to purchase here as an exclusive NFT, with proceeds being donated to Save the Children Ukraine.
DZHUS
A brand launched in 2010 in Kyiv by designer and stylist Irina Dzhus. It has gained global renown for its exceptionally cut, conceptual yet utilitarian, made-to-order collections.
Archetypal, staple garments are reworked into avant-garde pieces realised in fine, cruelty-free materials. Multi-functionality forms the DNA of Dzhus. Shorts turn into a tote bag, a cape into a sculptural hood, underpants into a crop top. Such clever design offers a vast array of styling options within just one product. In this way, the brand encourages people to consider a smaller but more versatile wardrobe.
Dzhus collections are made for the curious and keen to experiment; those who explore their potential to the fullest, turn their clothes to the seemingly wrong side, wear them upside down, or fasten them unusually. Irina’s designs nod both to the far future and the traditional, artisanal past. The wearer chooses which side of the garment to unveil more.
The eruption of war found Irina Dzhus in a suburb of Kyiv. She had to pack her life in one suitcase. Taking half the stock of her brand’s collection, she relocated to Warsaw with her three cats, leaving her boyfriend behind in Ukraine. Dzhus currently operates in a limited way from Poland, with some stock available for purchase. The designer is considering continuing production using Polish workshops. She also hopes to give work to Ukrainian refugee seamstresses. A significant part of the brand’s profits are being donated to charities supporting the Ukrainian army and animal shelters in the country.
WARM HUGS ONLY
A knitwear brand established in Lviv in 2019 by two friends: Olia and Svi. The girls share a love for artisan culture and all things handmade. This passion translates into the collection of bright and cosy knits that characterises Warm Hugs Only. “The idea of creating the brand was born during our trip to Morocco in 2019. It has been a dream of ours since the start of our friendship. This country allowed us to see the heritage of artisan traditions and a variety of ancient crafts,” the artists explain.
Just like the brand’s name, their product range is lively, snug and unapologetically positive. Checked vests, cloudy sweaters and multicoloured balaclavas are all designed to hug your skin warmly and uplift your mood. Visit their website to see their unique offering.
warmhugsonly.com
KSENIA SCHNEIDER
Perhaps the most influential sustainable fashion pioneer of Eastern Europe. Ksenia and Anton – the design duo and couple behind the brand – have been creating highly-coveted denim pieces since 2011.
Their avant-garde take on jeans has earned them worldwide attention – and a place in celebrity wardrobes. Both their “Demi-Denims” (which layer culottes over skinny jeans) and “Asymmetrical-Denims” (which combine a flared leg and slim leg in one pair of jeans) have become particularly famous.
In 2018, the brand released a denim take on the fur coat. Putting collection off-cuts into use, the designers created an iconic, cruelty-free garment. While the brand’s main focus is on denim pieces, their collections include patchwork knits and reconstructed sportswear. One recent project envisioned a suitcase made from recycled plastic bottles, as the duo is keen to extend their range to include lifestyle products.
Despite the horror of the present situation and a team that is now spread across all of Europe, Ksenia Schneider is not giving up. It recently reopened its online store and is continuing production.
You can help the team to persevere during this challenging time by purchasing a support gift certificate here.
CHEGO
A young Ukrainian jewellery brand based in Kyiv. They fashion raw, authentic and organic-shaped designs in silver.
It is a particularly challenging time for small, emerging brands, which have invested a lot in their growth and dreams. Chego’s manufacturer was based in the Donetsk region – long affected and disrupted by war – but managed to leave and find refuge elsewhere so the brand could continue production. In the mean time, Chego hasn’t given up developing new ways of putting their offer out across different channels. They have embraced both pop-up sales in Paris and digital formats.
Turning to NFTs, they released three items in a virtual format, featuring a heart shape and the handwritten inscription “always close to my heart”. It is available for purchase here. 100% of the proceeds from these sales will be used to support the Ukrainian army, as well as other organisations in their home country.
ANTON BELINSKIY
Born and raised in Kyiv, the designer founded his eponymous label in 2009. His aesthetic is influenced by his upbringing in 90s post-soviet Ukraine, family photographs, and the capital city’s creative underground scene. His collections are an eclectic mix of styles and references.
Tracksuits are accompanied with sleek tailoring, silhouettes play on the verge of feminine and masculine, fabrics channel the rough and luxurious side-by-side. Bold, statement designs are combined with a youthful, rebellious spirit. They are filled with the local identity of the designer, who often weaves in national references. Anton uses his collections as a visual commentary on Ukraine’s development, advocating for its sovereignty, a dismantling of its Soviet past, and the creation of a new history.
One of the many bold manifestos of the designer took place at the Maidan revolution of 2014. Anton staged a spontaneous photoshoot there as his own form of protest. Styling his collection with codes and symbols of Ukrainian national identity – like traditional dress and the blue and yellow flag – made a powerful statement. Currently, Anton remains in Kyiv, where he is supporting his family and the local community.
With the help of his team, he is assisting the Ukrainian army by sewing balaclavas and thermal underwear. He has also released a range of “benefit T-shirts”, which revive his famous collection garments featuring a Ukrainian passport image and the slogan “FREE UKRAINE”. You can purchase them here. All proceeds will be used to support initiatives in Ukraine.
VITA KIN
Established in 2008, Vita Kin’s namesake brand specialises in intricately hand-embroidered womenswear. The designer started with collections drawing on traditional Ukrainian dress, such as Vyshyvanka (an embroidery technique used in the traditional folk costumes of Ukraine). Now, these Ukrainian influences are also imbued with motifs from various cultures, including Aztec and Japanese patterns.
Floral appliqué, beading, broderie anglaise, pin tucks, folk embroidery. Vita Kin’s pieces are labour intensive and some take around three weeks to complete. They are all handmade by skilled craftspeople in a Kyiv atelier, which honours their skills and the beauty of slow handcraft. Aside from traditional references, the brand’s collections evoke a strong 1970s feel.
Free spirited in its aesthetic, Vita Kin also works free from the confines of seasons and passing trends. Collections are released according to what inspires the designer – faithful to its relaxed, bohemian aesthetic.
Vita Kin was recently invited by Gucci to an exciting collaboration. Her capsule collection will go on sale at the Gucci Vault online concept store starting May the 19th.